1: FUEL SYSTEM Filters are essential to keep water and foreign particles out of your engine. Most marine systems have two fuel filters: a primary filter placed in the fuel lines between the tank and engine, and a secondary filter between the fuel lift pump and the injection pump. Checking and replacing the primary fuel filter The type of primary filter found on most small boat installations comprises a filter element with a glass or metal bowl underneath to catch water and heavy sediment. These are held together with a long bolt running through the centre of the entire system. You should check regularly throughout the season for water having collected.
It will be clearly visible at the bottom of a glass bowl; metal bowls will require occasional draining to check. To drain the filter bowl, there will be a cock or plug at the bottom. Hold a container underneath and open the cock or loosen the plug. Once any water has passed through you should be rewarded with a stream of clear fuel and can then close the cock or screw the plug shut.
Primary Filter: drain the filter by loosening the plug at the bottom Replacing the filter is usually recommended at intervals of around 200 hours, although you should check the engine manual. First, remember to close the fuel stopcock to stop fuel draining from the tank. Some systems have stopcocks on both sides of the filter, which minimises loss from the fuel pipes and hence the amount of air a new filter introduces to the system.
Diesel is messy stuff which will get everywhere if not contained, so before touching the filter make sure you have measures in place to catch the fuel which will drain from the filter. A bowl below allows easy access when working, or if there isn’t space try hanging a plastic bag around the filter. Unscrew the central bolt, allowing the filter and bowl to separate from the bracket and the fuel to drain into the bowl or bag. If the canister has not come away it may need a slight tug to separate it from the bracket. Check the sealing rings between the bracket, canister and bowl – they don’t need replacing every time, but as new filters usually come supplied with seals you may prefer to do so. To fit the new filter, simply reverse the process. It’s best to assemble the base plate, bowl and filter as a single stack before offering it up and inserting the bolt.
Finally, tighten the bolt firmly with a spanner. Replacing the secondary fuel filter. Secondary filter bleed: slacken the screw on the filter until bubble-free fuel escapes The secondary filter is generally one of two types: a spin-on filter similar to car oil filters, or a type similar to the primary filter described in the previous section, without the separator bowl. To replace a spin-on filter, unscrew the filter with a filter wrench until you can just move it by hand. Place a plastic bag around the filter and continue to unscrew it, allowing the fuel to drain into the bag. Check the area where the new seals will sit for grime and wipe if necessary.
Having first applied a smear of diesel to the sealing ring, screw the new filter in place: hand-tight is sufficient if access is good enough to apply your full force, otherwise use a filter wrench – but only gently! Note: Some engines have fuel strainers fitted under the domed top of the lift pump. This should be removed and cleaned in paraffin or diesel Top tips. A smear of diesel on the sealing rings of fuel filters (oil for oil filters) helps them bed in smoothly when tightened. Filling the primary filter with the lift pump is a tedious task. Even if you have a dip pipe fuel system you can sometimes shortcut the process by opening the filter’s bleed screw and blowing down the fuel tank breather pipe to lightly pressurise the tank and drive fuel into the filter Bleeding the system Changing the fuel filters allows air into the pipes.
For the engine to run properly this must be ‘bled’ by driving it out under slight pressure from high points in the fuel system. Some engines are self-bleeding and can vent air without assistance, but most require you to carry out a few simple steps. Lift pump lever: the lift pump pessurises the low pressure system Firstly, make sure you have plenty of fuel and that all the valves in the fuel lines are fully open. Calculus by howard anton solution manual.
Try to operate the lift pump lever – if it won’t move or is reluctant, hand-turn the engine half a revolution to move the drive cam, and try again. If your primary filter is below the level of the fuel in the tank, and your fuel is drawn directly from the bottom of the tank rather than via a dip pipe, you can fill the primary filter simply by cracking open the bleed screw on the top. You should see the bowl fill with fuel, and once clean, bubble-free fuel starts to flow from around the bleed screw, close it. There may still be air on the downstream side of the filter which will need to be vented using the method described below, but having already filled the primary filter accelerates the bleeding process. In either case, the next stage is the secondary filter. Open the bleed screw and operate the lift pump. This may take several minutes, especially if you have to fill the primary filter this way.
Fuel should start appearing around the bleed screw; once this is free of bubbles you can close the screw. If that’s not enough For Yanmar GM engines, Perkins, Thornycroft and Kubota-based units you will also need to prime the injection pump. The process is similar to that for the secondary filter – open the injection pump bleed screw and operate the lift pump until clear fuel emerges. Older pumps may have two screws – bleed these in turn, starting with the bottom one. Injector bleed: take care when bleeding the high-pressure system That completes the low-pressure part of the system and should be sufficient. Try starting the engine – if it runs smoothly, you’ve finished. If not, switch it off and bleed the high-pressure part of the system.
Back off the injection pipe nuts a couple of turns, open the throttle fully in neutral, and crank the engine. Use short bursts to avoid damaging the starter motor. Once you see spurts of clean fuel coming from around the injection pipes, you can tighten the nuts and start the engine. Keep well away from injection pipe nuts while cranking the engine – the pressure of the fuel is sufficient to pierce your skin. 2: OIL CHANGES Manufacturers’ recommendations for oil change intervals vary, but for most boat engines an annual oil change is adequate. Carrying this out at the end of the season makes sense, as engine and gearbox oils contain additives which help inhibit corrosion. The old engine oil will also have become contaminated with sulphur from diesel combustion, forming sulphuric acid which can accelerate corrosion through the winter months.
Oil removal: drain the oil or pump it through the dipstick tube Engine oil Most engines have a sump plug which can be used to drain the oil, but boats being boats, there’s rarely room to access the plug let alone have a tray in place to catch the oil. Some engines have a pump fitted to remove the oil, or you can buy a pump to allow you to extract it from the dipstick hole.
To change the oil, first run the engine up to its normal operating temperature. This thins the oil and stirs up any sludge from the bottom of the sump so that it can be removed with the oil. Warming the engine normally takes about 15 minutes, so to avoid waiting it’s worth planning some time at the end of a day on the water when the engine is already hot. Extract the oil using the drain plug, cock or pump. Use a filter wrench to back off the oil filter until it’s just hand-tight; then place a plastic bag around it and unscrew it. Give the seal on the new filter a smear of oil and screw it into position. Tighten it as firmly as possible by hand – this is usually enough, or for safety nip it up with a filter wrench.
Engine oil filler – add a little less than the suggested quantity of oil Check the handbook for the grade and quantity of oil required, but don’t be too concerned if the engine takes a little less – you rarely manage to extract all the old oil. To fill, remove the oil filler cap, wiping away any dirt from around the rim, and wrap a rag around it to confine spillage. Pour in the oil, stopping just before the recommended amount to check the level with the dipstick. You may need to top up the level a few times as the oil works its way down into the crankcase. Gearbox Oil: check gearbox oil from the screwthread bottom Opinions vary on how often you should change the gearbox oil, and it’s certainly less critical than the engine oil as there are no contaminants from combustion. However, it’s still worth changing regularly to renew the corrosion inhibitors and remove any particles that could damage the gears. Firstly, check the colour of the old oil.
It should look clean: if it’s black you may have an overheating problem, if it’s a milky colour water may be getting into it. In either case, you need to fix the problem before changing the oil. Assuming all is well, remove the dipstick and use a pump to extract the oil. Replace with the oil recommended in the manual, usually either a standard engine oil or automatic transmission fluid, and check the level with the dipstick. Gearbox dipsticks often screw in place – if yours is of this type, don’t screw it in to take the reading as the stick measures from the bottom of the thread. Used oil, filters and oily rags all need safe disposal, so find your nearest facility before you start work.
Some marinas and boatyards have a disposal service, or you can find your nearest municipal site at www.oilbankline.org.uk 3: COOLING SYSTEM Even small diesel engines now usually have indirect cooling, so changing the coolant is a job most boat owners will need to undertake. Like the oil, it’s a good idea to do this at the beginning of winter.
Apart from its obvious purpose of stopping the system from freezing, antifreeze also contains corrosion inhibitors which will help your system survive the winter months. Freshwater drain: locate the freshwater drain points and drain the coolant Freshwater system Only change the coolant when the engine is cold – when the engine has been running up to temperature and is hot the filler cap is under pressure and can allow scalding steam and water to escape if released. First remove the filler cap. Locate the drain cocks – there is often more than one – and drain the coolant into a bowl. Don’t drain it directly into the bilge – most antifreeze contains highly toxic ethylene glycol. Once the system has drained, close the cocks and replace the coolant.
The antifreeze/water mix varies on the lowest temperature you want it to protect against, but will be explained on the antifreeze can. You can either pre-mix the coolant in a bottle, or allow it to mix in the engine – if you choose the latter, pour in the antifreeze first, then top up with water. Run the engine for about 30 minutes and check the coolant level again, topping up as necessary. Raw water system This should be flushed through with fresh water at the end of the season to avoid corrosion.
Some boat owners plug the ends of the circuit and fill it with antifreeze for the winter. Check the inlet strainer and clean if necessary.
You should also check the impeller. First remove the faceplate from the pump, then remove the impeller with a pair of needle-nosed pliers, taking note of the vanes’ direction. Examine it carefully for cracks – a favourite place for deterioration is at the roots of the flexible vanes. If a vane is missing you need to find it, as the old vane could be sucked through your new impeller and destroy it. Clean off all traces of the old paper gasket from the faceplate and housing.
Smear the new impeller with washing-up liquid for lubrication and slide it back onto the shaft, making sure the vanes are aligned the same way as they were for the old impeller, and that the pin engages with the slot. Replace the faceplate, using a new gasket, and tighten the screws evenly. Other checks. All engines have a thermostat which regulates the flow of water around the cylinder head and hence its temperature. Unfortunately these can fail and cause the engine to overheat dangerously.
Run the engine and check that the water on the output side of the thermostat is warm. Many engines have sacrificial anodes fitted to guard against electrolytic corrosion. These need to be removed annually and checked for depletion. If the engine in your boat is mounted low enough that the point where the cooling water enters the exhaust is below the waterline, there will be an anti-syphon valve to stop water flowing back into the cylinders and wrecking the engine. These valves can become contaminated with salt crystals, so check them and regularly clean them with fresh water. 4: AIR INTAKE AND EXHAUST Air intake.
Synthetic air filters such as this should be rinsed with detergent and dried before refitting Air filters require regular replacement to ensure the free flow of air into the engine and optimum performance. There are three main types: 1. Paper elements are disposable, so if it looks clogged simply throw it away and fit a new one. Some filters use a synthetic wadding. Wash this through with some detergent and allow it to dry before refitting. Older engines may have an oil bath, where a coarse metal screen is coated with oil from a bath below. These need cleaning with diesel or paraffin, and the oil will need replacing.
Exhaust Disconnect the exhaust hose from the engine and clean away any deposits, checking for corrosion – spraying with inhibitor can help guard against future problems. If you are winterising your engine, leave the pipe off for ventilation and seal the engine with a plastic bag – if not, refit the pipe. 5: BATTERIES.
Alternator belt: a correctly tensioned belt can be deflected with your finger by about 12mm Although not a candidate for annual replacement, it pays to keep an eye on your alternator belt for wear or cracking. When servicing the engine, have a good look and take the opportunity to check the tension. V-type belts are correctly tensioned when you can deflect them about 12mm with your fingers; for flat belts it should be just possible to twist them through 90°. If your engine has a timing belt check the manufacturer’s recommended replacement interval.
It’s also worthwhile giving it a visual inspection for wear.
. INSTRUCTION BOOK TAMD60A/B, TAMD70C/D, AQD70C/D. Do not wait until something has gone wrong before you consult the instruction book to see what you should do. Volvo Penta has built up an extensive service organization in order to be able to give your engine the service needed.
At all major places all over the world there are modern workshops with specially trained personnel at your service. Instruction book Marine diesel engines TAMD60A, TAMD60B, TAMD70C, TAMD70D, AQD70C, AQD70D Contents Presentation Page Servicing Page Safety information. 2 Type designation. 7 Servicing scheme.20 Lubrication and checks.21 Location of serial number.7 Engine description.8 Engine.
If anything is still not clear or if you are not sure of any points, please get in touch with your Volvo Penta dealer for assistance. This symbol is used throughout the instruction manual and on the product to bring your atten- tion to points of safety-related information. Safety regulations for boat trips The new boat Filling fuel Read instruction manuals and other information ac- There is a risk of fire and explosion when filling fuel. Companying the new boat thoroughly. Accustom your- Smoking is prohibited and the engine must be turned self with handling the engine, controls and other equip- off.
Carbon monoxide poisoning Most modern boats, however, are designed in such a When a boat is moving forward, it will cause a certain way that this problem is very rare. If suction should vacuum to form behind the boat. In unfortunate cir- arise anyway, do not open hatches or portholes at the cumstances, the suction from this vacuum can be so fore of the boat. All fuel, most lubricants and many chemicals are Never perform a task unless you are absolutely sure flammable substances. Always read and follow the di- how it is to be carried out, call your Volvo Penta deal- rections on the packaging.
Er for assistance instead. Hot surfaces and fluids Fuel system A hot engine always involves risk for burn injuries. Always protect your hands when carrying out leak de- Take care with hot surfaces. E.g.: exhaust manifold, tection. Escaping fluids under pressure can pierce turbocharger, oil pan, charge air pipe, starting heater, bodily tissue and cause serious injury.
Oil dipstick, engine 11. Stop solenoid 12. Injection pump 13. Alternator 14. Charging regulator Fig.
Engine TAMD60A 1. Turbo-compressor 2. Air cleaner 3. After-cooler 4.
Expansion tank (cooling system) 5. Oil cooler for engine 6. Connection for expansion vessel (extra equipment) 7.
Engine AQD70C, TAMD70C 1. Oil scavenging pump 2. After-cooler 3. Heat exchanger 4. Oil cooler, engine 5.
Thermostat housing 6. Vibration damper 7.
Seawater pump 8. Oil filters 9. Relay box 10. Electric connection box with fuses The engines are fitted with a heat exchanger for thermosta- cooled by oil fed through special nozzles located in the engine block. Engine TAMD70D 1. Voltage regulator 2. Thermostat housing 3.
Fuel fine filters 4. Water-cooled exhaust manifold 5. Oil filler cap 6. Turbo-compressor 7. Reverse gear TD MG506 8. Stop solenoid 9. Oil dipstick 10.
Fuel injection pump 11. Oil cooler 12.
Instruments and controls Before starting to run your new marine engine, become acquainted with the controls and instruments. Make a habit of checking the instruments now and again while running - any abnormal readings will then be detected in time. Instruments The most important instruments for the engine are grouped The location of the panels in relation to each other can be. Pressure gauge - engine lubricating oil pressure, 15.
Pressure gauge - reverse gear oil pressure. The should be at 300-500 kPa (3-5 kp/cm = 43-71 psi) pressure should be around the values given in during normal operation.
At idling speed it should be ”Technical Data”, pages 40 and 41. Controls When it is desired to use the lever again for operating the Volvo Penta single lever control (single or twin), operates reverse gear, keep the button (2) pushed in and move the both the reverse gear and the engine speed. When there are two engines a twin control is used. On the TAMD60 engines, small quantities required for topping-up can be added to the expansion tank, but other- wise coolant should always be filled directly into the heat exchanger through the hole for the hexagon plug, until the engine is completely full and vented. Then close the ven- ting cock at the turbo and screw the hexagon plug on the heat exchanger.
Disengaging the reverse gear from the control. Lamp 17 goes out. If a second starting attempt has to be made on engine TAMD60A, the control should be moved back to “Neu- tral” and then re-set to full speed in order to engage the cold-starting device again. Procedure after starting Never race a cold engine. Run it warm under light loading or at rapid idling speed. Check that the warning lamp for the oil pressure (17, figs.
7 & 8) goes out immediately after the engine has started. Change the oil again after running 100–150 hours and The oil in the reverse gear (and the filter element on SCG) change the oil filter (filters) at the same time. Never flush should be changed for the first time after 100-150 hours of out the engine with flushing oil since the bearing pressures operation. Stopping Let the engine run for a few minutes without load to enable the engine temperature to drop, thereby avoiding after-boiling. Press in the stop button and keep it pressed in until the engine has stopped, Close the cock on the trickle-feed line to the bilge pump, if such a pump is fitted.
–30°C (–22°F) –40°C (–40°F) number 283241 in cans of 4.5 litres = 1 Imp.gall. = 1.2 U.S.gall.), which have the right amount of additive for neu- TAMD60A, B 20 8.5 (1.9 = 2.1) 9.5 (2.2 = 2.5) 11 (2.4 = 2.9) (4.4 = 5.3). Sulphur content Max.
0.5% by weight We recommend that you use Volvo Penta diesel engine lubricating oil which is on sale at our service stations. The fuel oil property requirements stated above are also covered, to a large extent, by the following standards.
Servicing scheme The numbering in the scheme below lists the servicing operations described in the following pages under the cor- responding numbers. Servicing work requiring the attention of experienced mechanics and the use of special tools is marked with an ”A” and should, therefore, be carried out by authorized service personnel. Daily Every 600 hours Check the oil level in the engine.
Lubrication and checks Daily 1. Engine oil level Check the oil level daily with the engine switched off. Wipe the oil dipstick with a clean cloth. Do not use cotton waste. The level should be between the two marks on the dipstick. Never below the lower mark.
Reverse gear lubricating oil Engine oil of same quality Oil capacity, approx. And viscosity as in (incl. Cooler) engine. (litres) Imp.gall. Borg Warner 73CR. Venting cocks Borg Warner 10-05. V-drive Twin Disc, MG 502 Twin Disc, MG 506 SCG MRF 350 HDMK3 12.5.
Oil viscosity for Borg Warner, SAE 30. Lubricating-disengageable clutch, reduction gear Optional equipment, TAMD70D. Lubricate the throw-out bearing (nipple 1) daily, before starting. Lubricate sparingly, to avoid risk of excess grease finding its way onto the dry clutch linings and causing slip. Use multi-purpose heat resistant grease.
Extra power take-off at front end. Hydraulic system, oil level AQD70. Optional equipment for all other engines. Check the level after every 50 hours of operation. The eng- ine should be idling. Remove the filler cap on the hydraulic tank.
Wipe the dipstick, and check the level which should be at the max. All other engines, changing oil Remove the oil dipstick and connect the hose from the oil scavenging pump to the pipe for the dipstick. (Outer diameter of pipe, 13 mm). An electric scavenging pump is available as optional equipment. Start the pump and collect the oil in a vessel. Fill oil through the hole for the ventilation cap on the rocker arm casing. Both elements of the double filter and the lower element of the single filter should be changed after 200 hours of ope- ration or at least once every season, preferably at the be- ginning.
Close the fuel cocks at the tank and loosen the fil- ter housing by screwing out the centre screw. V-belts, checking After every 200 hours of operation check that the belts are properly tensioned and that they are not worn. It should be possible to depress the belts about 10 mm midway between the pulleys if they are properly tensioned. The belts for the circulation pump are tensioned, after nut (1) has first been slackened, by moving the tensioning pul- ley (2) outwards. Seawater filter The filter (optional equipment) should be taken apart and cleaned after every 200 hours of operation or more often if necessary. First close the bottom valve.
Then screw the attaching screws out of the cover (1). Lift up the cover and the ele- ment and clean the element in the housing (2) carefully. Air cleaner TAMD70C, AQD70C Clean the cleaner after every 600 hours of operation.
Undo the clamps round the cleaner and remove and wash the filter element in white spirit or diesel fuel oil. Allow the filter element to drip-dry and then moisten it with engine lubricating oil and refit it. Starter motor, lubrication. Lubricate the starter motor after every 600 hours of opera- tion using Bosch oil 5944 290 000. Screw out the slotted screw in the mounting flange against the flywheel housing and fill the hole with oil, refit the screw and tighten it.Applies to starter motor type KG(R) which are provided with a lubricating hole as shown in the figure. Every 1200 hours 26. Hydraulic system AQD70.
Optional equipment on other engines. Change the oil and the filter element after every 1200 hours, or at least once a year. See the instruction book for the Aquamatic drive type 750, where venting and changing are described in greater detail. Starter motor, alternator and fuses NOTE! Disconnect both battery cables before carrying out any work on the electrical system. Starter motor, checking brushes and commutator This check should be carried out after every 1200 hours of operation.
Disconnect the starter motor cables and remove the starter motor. Lubrication The large alternator should be lubricated after every 1200 hours of operation. (The small alternator is only lubricated in connection with an overhaul.) Unscrew the plug above the lubricating hole at the bearing, close to the belt pulley.
Use a small quantity of Shell Re- tinax A or equivalent lubricant. Remove the cover with the oil trap from the block (applies to TAMD60A) and pull out the cooler insert. The Inserts in after-cooler and insert can only be pulled out forwards because it is heat exchanger, AQD70, TAMD70 provided with a flange at the front end. Use new gaskets and fit the housing to the engine. Fit new sealing rings on the ends and then fit the end covers. The covers for this cooler lie tight against the housing. Oil cooler for AQD70D, TAMD70D engines Drain the coolant from the fresh water system.
Remove the oil cooler coolant pipes. Fuel injection pump NOTE! Any repair work required to be done on the fuel injection pump should be carried out by specially trained mechanics who have the necessary tools and testing devices at their disposal. All warranty on the engine be- comes null and void if the seals are broken by unauthori- zed persons. The The engine fresh water system must either be fresh water system should be filled with a Volvo Penta ethy- completely drained or have anti-freeze added, suitable lene glycol mixture. The concentration of glycol used in the form of Volvo Penta ethylene glycol.
Technical Data Engine Type designation. TAMD60A AQD70C AQD70D TAMD60B TAMD70C TAMD70D Number of cylinders.Cylinder bore.mm 98.4 104.77 Stroke.mm Displacement.dm (litre) 5,48 6.73 Idling speed.r/s (r/min) 10.9 (650) 9.2 (550) Compression pressure at starter motor, p.s.i.). Fuel system TAMD60A AQD70C, TAMD70C Fuel injection pump Bosch.PES6MW 100/320 PE6P 110 A 320RS 260Z RS5Z PE6P 110A 320RS 260Y. Injectors (holders) Bosch. KBAL 112S 28/4 KBAL 112S 28/4. Nozzles Bosch.DLLA 150S 204 DLLA 150S 634 (early prod.). Turbo-compressor TAMD60 AQD70, TAMD70 Manufacturer, type (TAMD60A-AQD70C, TAMD70C).Holset 3LD-530A/ Holset 3LD-530A/ 2.5 WSO 2.5 WSO (TAMD60B-AQD70D, TAMD70D).KKK-K27-2970 N/14.7 KKK-K27-3068/14.7 Lubrication.From engine lubricating system Cooling.From engine fresh water cooling system Charging pressure Charging pressure at 100% engine load and an ambient air temperatu- re of approx.
TAMD60 AQD70, TAMD70 Borg Warner, model.73 CR V-drive 10-05 Ratios. 2:1, 3:1 1.5:1, 2:1 Oil quality.Same as in engine (viscosity, however SAE 30) Oil capacity (including cooler).dm (Imp.gall,US gall.) 2.5 (0.6-0.7) 5.5 (1.2-1.5) Oil pressure, normal during running. Wiring diagram Fig.
Block diagram (same for all engines in this book) 1. Contact (male and female) Red, 8-pole A. Basic instrument panel 2. Contact (male and female) Red, 8-pole B. Panel with supplementary instruments (alarm, etc) 3. Contact (male and female) Black, 4-pole C. Oil pressure sensor 15.
Pressure sender – turbo 16. Engine coolant temperature sensor 17. Starter cut-out relay (only TAMD60B).
TAMD60A engines The cable from terminal 105 connects to the starter motor terminal 50 and the cable from terminal 110 connects di- rectly to the alternator terminal 61. Wiring diagram TAMD70C., TAMD70D, AQD70C., AQD70D 1. For capacity see ‘Tech. Master switch 3.
Starter motor 4. Alternator 4x. Alternator (1600 W, optional equipm.) 5.
Voltage regulator 5x. Voltage regulator (optional equipm.) Must not be fitted to engine. Wiring diagram. Instruments, basic instrument panel 31.
Instrument lighting 32. Voltmeter 33. Oil pressure gauge 34. Engine coolant temperature gauge 35. Stop button 36.
Time relay (not on TAMD60) 37. Holding current relay (Omitted on TAMD60 but green cable 2.5 from 35 is connected to + on 33) 38. Wiring diagram. Panel with supplementary instruments (alarm, etc) 51. Instrument lighting 52.
Oil pressure gauge – reverse gear 53. Alarm separator 54. Pressure gauge – turbo 55.
Extra switches (max. 5 A per switch) 56. Charging warning lamp 57. Wiring diagram. Panel with fuel gauge and rudder indicator. Instrument lighting 72. Fuel gauge 73.
Rudder indicator 74. Extra switches (max. 5 A per switch) 75. Sender, fuel gauge 76. Sender, rudder indicator (The free, blue 1.5 cable should be connected to 104 on the engine terminal box) Fig. Index After-cooler.9, 33, 34 Inhibiting. 37 Air cleaner.29 Injection pump.36,39 Anti-freeze.18 Injectors.29, 39 Instruments.
10, 11 Battery.19, 24, 39 Maintenance, see Servicing. 20 wiring up (wiring diagram).43, 44 Manoeuvring (Forward/Reverse). (kiloponds per square centimetre) earlier unit p.s.i. (lbf/in ) (pounds per square inch) Personal Information: Name.Address. Tel.Nearest Volvo Penta Dealer/Service Workshop Name.Address.
Tel.Information-Engine: Type of engine.Serial Number.
Volvo Penta / Perkins Diesel Marine Engines Workshop Service Repair Manual This workshop manual contains technical data, de- scriptions and repair instructions for the standard versions of engine units TAMD61A, TAMD62A, TAMD63L-A, TAMD63P-A, TAMD71A, TAMD71B, TAMD72A, TAMD72P-A, TAMD72WJ-A. Marine engines TAMD61A TAMD62A TAMD63L-A TAMD63P-A TAMD71A TAMD71B TAMD72A TAMD72P-A TAMD72WJ-A Contents General instructions. 2 Special tools. 9 Other special equipment.
12 Design and function Engine,generally. 13 Designdifferences,engineversions. 14 Identification signs.
15 Locationoftypeapprovalplates. 15 Component description.
24 Repair instructions General. 30 Engine jig attachment. 31 Condition test, engine. 32 Compression test. 32 Cylinder head, renovation.
32 Cylinder head, removal. 32 Cylinder head, stripping/assembly.
34 Cylinder head, leakage test. 35 Cylinder head, inspection. 37 Valve guides, inspection.
38 Valve guides, replacement. 38 Cylinder head, planing. 39 Cylinder head, milling the seal groove. 39 Valve seat, replacement. 42 Valve seat, grinding.
43 Valves, grinding. 44 Rocker mechanism, renovation. 44 Checking the valve springs. 46 Cylinder head, assembly. 46 Copper injector sleeve, replacement. 48 Cleaning seat for copper sleeve.
49 Copper sleeve, assembly. 50 Valves, adjustment. 52 Cylinder block, renovation. 53 Piston and con rod, removal. 53 Piston and con rod, inspection.
Marine Diesel Engines Reviews
54 Piston removal, gudgeon pin boss replacement. 54 Piston, assembly.
55 Piston ring inspection and fit. 56 Piston ring assembly. 56 Cylinder liner, inspection and measurement. 57 Cylinder liner, disassembly. 57 Cylinderliner,honing. 58 Cylinderlinerposition,renovation. 59 Cylinder liner, assembly.
60 Piston assembly. 61 Timing gears, disassembly. 62 Timing gears, assembly. 65 Sealant application, timing gear lid. 66 Seal ring, polygon hub, replacement.
66 Polygon hub, assembly. 67 Camshaft, wear check. 67 Camshaft, disassembly. 68 Inspection of valve lifters and camshaft. 69 Camshaft, measurement. 70 Camshaft bearing, replacement. 70 Camshaft, assembly.
71 Crankcase, disassembly. 71 Inspection, crankshaft and bearings.
72 Crankshaft, renovation. 74 Cylinder block, inspection. 75 Cylinder block, planing. 75 Crankshaft, assembly.
Used Marine Diesel Engines
76 Big end bearings, replacement. 77 Main bearings, replacement. 78 Flywheel, replacement. 80 Gear ring, replacement. 81 Flywheel, indication. 82 Flywheel housing, indication.
82 Crankshaft seal, rear, replacement. 83 Flange seal, flywheel housing, replacement.
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